With our tummies full of ducks and snails, we moved on to Barcelona, where Pedro and Arantxa took us to what must be one of the city's best neighbourhood restaurants - Cal Boter, in Gràcia - luckily unknown to the hordes of tourists down by the seafront.  Here we sampled more Catalunyan specialities, including one of their classic 'surf 'n' turf' dishes - this time wild mushrooms with prawns.  And we had bacalao - salted and dried cod - about which I suspect you could write a thesis as it appears in all sorts of countries, is used in all sorts of ways, and reflects all sorts of interesting historical connections...