Results tagged “cream”

The World's Best

This recipe comes from Mia Kristensen of CPH Good Food in Copenhagen, who I collaborate with to run New Nordic cuisine classes in London.  This recipe featured in our Summer 2012 class.

Don't be put off by all the steps in the recipe.  You basically need to separate half a dozen eggs and use the yolks to make a simple sponge and the whites to make a simple meringue.  The rest is basically fresh fruit and cream!  In any case, it's well worth the effort. 


Turkish poached apricots with clotted cream

Turkey is the world’s leading apricot producer, and the town synonymous with their production is Malatya, in eastern central Anatolia.  The orchards around Malatya provide some 95% of all of Turkey’s dried apricots.  I try to buy the dark brown dried apricots as the bright orange ones have been treated with sulphur. 

smturkishapricots0001.jpgIf you can get mulberry or grape molasses - called ‘pekmez’ in Turkish - add some to the syrup to make this dessert extra delicious.  In Turkey these apricots would be served with buffalo milk clotted cream, called ‘kaymak’ in Turkish.  You can use regular cow’s milk clotted cream, crème fraîche, whipped cream or mascarpone.  This recipe is adapted from Ghillie Başan, a cookbook writer.  

Lemon panna cotta

Panna cotta is really easy - you just need to remember to make it in advance so it has time to set in the fridge.  You could use any combination of milk and cream, even crème fraîche or yoghurt. Panna cotta is lovely served with fresh, poached or candied fruits and something crunchy like a small, crisp cookie.


Vanilla panna cotta

This recipe is based on one by David Tanis, one of the very talented chefs at Chez Panisse in California, where I worked for a while in 2007.  Panna cotta is really easy - you just need to remember to make it in advance so it has time to set in the fridge.  You could use any combination of milk and cream, even yoghurt.


Gratin dauphinois

Creamy or crusty?  That is the question.  The answer is, both, of course, but in what proportions?  Everyone seems to have their own way for making this, perhaps the most classic of potato dishes.  And they’re almost always delicious; it just depends which kind you prefer.  My extensive research and testing (you can’t eat too much gratin dauphinois) has followed the two main schools of thought, both of which I love, but for different reasons…

Smgratindauphinois20001.JPGFirst up is the ‘thin ‘n’ crispy’ version, as perfected by American food writer Jeffrey Steingarten, who points out that ‘gratin’ comes from ‘gratter’, to scrape, which hints at the true form and in fact whole point of the dish - it should be really sticky and crispy, requiring much scraping so as not to leave behind a scrap of that wonderful brown goo encrusted on the potatoes and the dish itself.  His version is only one layer deep, resulting in much stickiness both above and below.  The flavours end up quite concentrated, with salt, pepper, nutmeg, garlic and reduced cream combining into an intense savouriness, not dissimilar to parmesan cheese, despite the absence of cheese in the recipe.  In fact, Jeffrey considers the addition of cheese “a gross and pitiful imposture, an admission of failure.”  I would agree entirely.

Equally delicious, just in a different way, is what I call the ‘deep ‘n’ creamy’ version, which chef Eric Fraudeau in Paris (with whom I took a class at the start of our culinary travels in 2008) assures me is the correct method.  The question of how to correctly and authentically cook a gratin dauphinois was apparently so aggressively contested that Charles de Gaulle held a competition to determine the definitive recipe.  Eric is adamant that the potatoes should first be cooked on the stove in milk, which is then discarded, and then baked in cream.  Also, the potatoes are cut lengthways, slightly thicker, and arranged in more than one layer.  The result is creamier, with the notes of nutmeg et al appearing only as hints.  You still get the wonderful crispy crust on top of course, essential to any and every version of the dish.

Carrot soup with orange flower cream and spicy almonds

I’d say this soup was Moroccan, although I’ve never had it in Morocco.  In fact I’ve only ever had it in my own kitchen, after experimenting with several flavours which are often combined in Moroccan cuisine.  Travelling in Morocco we often found carrot combined with oranges and orange flower water for desserts.  Carrot is also mixed with cumin, garlic and parsley in the common cooked carrot salad you will get as a starter.  Almonds are found in many Moroccan dishes, sweet and savoury.  I think this soup works brilliantly, but I’m biased, so you’ll have to let me know…

Smcarrotorangecreamsoup.JPGFor an easier version, simply omit some or all garnishes, or make carrot soup with ginger as described below.  This simple carrot soup was one of the dishes I made while helping out chef Mona Talbott at the Rome Sustainable Food Project at the American Academy in Rome last June. 

The trick with any puréed carrot soup is the amount of time you cook the carrots; too short and the soup will not purée silky smooth; too long and you will lose the bright carrot colour and flavour.  So keep checking the carrots as they cook.

From the people who brought you yoghurt

Smyoghurtwithsesameseeds0001.JPGYou might not associate Turkey with dairy products in the way that you might France or Italy.  But dairy is big business in Turkey, the country which invented yoghurt and exported it to the world.  There are also numerous cheeses and some very special butters and creams, and an ice cream you eat with a knife and fork.

Christmas special part 4 - Nathan's eggnog

california, usa
I admit to having said some not very nice things about eggnog in the past.  But that was before I tried Nathan's eggnog.  Heavy on the bourbon, light on the sugar and spice, and silky smooth on the tongue, this one is a creamy and delicious dessert in a glass.  Also, Nathan cooks (and bakes) at Chez Panisse, so we can trust him.  Having said that, eggnog would more traditionally be made with rum, brandy or whisky, but Nathan's from Kentucky.


Classic crème caramel

france, spain
This is a classic recipe, which we have practised at school.  It is based on one by Julia Child in ‘Mastering the Art of French Cooking’ (1961).  It may not be trendy, but I like it.  Hope you do too.

Smallcremecaramel0013.JPGTo make your water bath extra safe for your delicate custards, line it with a towel.  This protects the bottoms of the custards from getting too hot.  Don’t discard the vanilla bean (they’re expensive).  Instead wash and dry it, then add it to a jar of sugar and leave for a few weeks, shaking occasionally.  This makes delicious vanilla sugar, which you can use the next time you make a custard.

Sorry for the lack of Christmassy recipes.  I could document the saga of my Christmas pudding and Christmas cake for you (candying own peel - 6 days; tracking down suet in a city where nobody's heard of it - 10 days; working out what to do with a huge hunk of fat cut straight out of a cow - 3 days; preparing pudding and cake ingredients - 1 day and night; baking cake - 5 hours; steaming pudding - 8 hours; feeding cake - 10 days), but I suspected not many would care to replicate this bizarre use of time.  Am I wrong?

Wild flower honey ice cream

As promised, some ice cream to go with last week's apple cake.  If you have an ice cream maker, this is really easy.  (Or as they would say here, 'super easy'.)  I made this ice cream having had something similar at Chez Panisse (a famous Berkeley restaurant).  There it was served with roasted figs - delicious.  At home we had it with Carlo's Florentine Apple Cake - equally delicious.  

Thumbnail image for carlo's apple cake 2.jpgYou should use the nicest honey you can find.  If yours is too hard and crystalline to mix easily with the yolks, first warm the jar in a pan of hot water.  The honey keeps the ice cream soft, which means you can serve it directly from the freezer.  The honey also prolongs the life of the ice cream, so you can keep it for several weeks.  But you won't want to.


Culinary Anthropologist