
After our
epic journey to Erzurum, we had a very long day's drive ahead of us to get to Mardin and the south-east. Partly because it's quite a long way; partly because we took quite a roundabout route. But also because as well as getting stopped by the police as usual, we started getting stopped by the army. This is PKK country: villages have military watchtowers, and roads have frequent checkpoints. (Perhaps a bit like Northern Ireland in the 1970s, but with more kebabs.) There's a fair amount of traffic, though, so you'd have thought they'd have seen someone like Anna driving a Land Rover before, but apparently not: once the first soldier saw who was at the wheel, he immediately called the rest of the squad over for a laugh.
But it was definitely worth the drive. Not only was the south-east probably the highlight of the trip (although it's a close call), we went on from that to see the centre and the coast in ways that most tourists don't get to do - mostly because of the people we met.
So read on for stories of underground ovens, underwater cities, pizzas as long as Anna is tall, and ice cream you eat with a knife and fork.