Results tagged “potatoes”

This recipe is adapted from one by David Tanis, chef at Chez Panisse and author of ‘A Platter of Figs’, among other good things.  You can make it a few hours before serving, but do not refrigerate or it may go rubbery.

Creamy or crusty?  That is the question.  The answer is, both, of course, but in what proportions?  Everyone seems to have their own way for making this, perhaps the most classic of potato dishes.  And they’re almost always delicious; it just depends which kind you prefer.  My extensive research and testing (you can’t eat too much gratin dauphinois) has followed the two main schools of thought, both of which I love, but for different reasons…

First up is the ‘thin ‘n’ crispy’ version, as perfected by American food writer Jeffrey Steingarten, who points out that ‘gratin’ comes from ‘gratter’, to scrape, which hints at the true form and in fact whole point of the dish - it should be really sticky and crispy, requiring much scraping so as not to leave behind a scrap of that wonderful brown goo encrusted on the potatoes and the dish itself.  His version is only one layer deep, resulting in much stickiness both above and below.  The flavours end up quite concentrated, with salt, pepper, nutmeg, garlic and reduced cream combining into an intense savouriness, not dissimilar to parmesan cheese, despite the absence of cheese in the recipe.  In fact, Jeffrey considers the addition of cheese “a gross and pitiful imposture, an admission of failure.”  I would agree entirely.

Equally delicious, just in a different way, is what I call the ‘deep ‘n’ creamy’ version, which chef Eric Fraudeau in Paris (with whom I took a class at the start of our culinary travels in 2008) assures me is the correct method.  The question of how to correctly and authentically cook a gratin dauphinois was apparently so aggressively contested that Charles de Gaulle held a competition to determine the definitive recipe.  Eric is adamant that the potatoes should first be cooked on the stove in milk, which is then discarded, and then baked in cream.  Also, the potatoes are cut lengthways, slightly thicker, and arranged in more than one layer.  The result is creamier, with the notes of nutmeg et al appearing only as hints.  You still get the wonderful crispy crust on top of course, essential to any and every version of the dish.

Perhaps Dugléré did not choose a potato dish to name after Anna by chance, but because he knew the potato is a member of the nightshade family.  This family also includes the deadly belladonna plant, so-called because 16th century Italian bella donnas ('good-looking women') used atropine, found in the belladonna plant, to dilate the pupils of their eyes so as to appear more seductive.
 
In fact, when potatoes were first introduced to Europe from the New World in the 16th century, people were highly wary of them, suspecting them to be poisonous.  They were actually right - the leaves and stems of the plant are, being full of solanine.  The tubers, of course, are not.

However, beware the potato that has turned green, been stored in a very cold place, gone wrinkly and spongy, or started to sprout.  These are all signs that solanine has developed in it to high levels.  The potato probably won't kill you, but might taste bitter and give you a slight tummy ache.   

Adding a potato to an overly salty soup, sauce or stew in order to absorb some of the salt is nothing more than an old wives' tale.  The potato just absorbs some of the liquid, and the salt carried in it, hence not affecting the percentage of salt in the remaining liquid one iota.

Well, the exams are all over and I have officially graduated from the Tante Marie Cooking School professional culinary programme.  (Judging by the quantity of champagne I drank on Friday night and the certificate I came home clutching, I'm pretty sure that's what happened, but it's a little blurry.)   I did pretty well in all the exams, with the exception of the wine test, which I got 100% wrong.  This may come as a surprise to some, although I can admit to you that I purposefully sacrificed a few points in exchange for a lifetime's excuse that I need more practice.

To celebrate the completion of my course, I egotistically decided to send you the recipe for the very delicious Pommes Anna - crispy on the outside and tender inside, like me.  It's not my recipe though, rather the creation of a well known 19th century French chef and named after the most loved and respected whore in Paris.  If it could seduce her, then it must be worth a try.
 
By the way, this dish is really easy to make but you do need a heavy, oven-proof, non-stick frying pan.  There are even special copper 'Pommes Anna pans' available at phenomenal expense from posh cookware shops.  (I got a cheap little pan from Ikea that works a treat, but now have my eye on the real deal, currently going on eBay for just $10... )