June 2008 Archives

Jun 27, 2008 status: Goodbye gnocchi and prosciutto, hello njoki and pršut

Jun 23, 2008 status: Breakfast in Italy, lunch in Slovenia, dinner in Croatia

Italy part 1: bottom to top

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Smsignoria0001.JPGAs we rolled off the overnight ferry, we were temporarily unsure what country we'd got to now.  One look at the customs official, though - his designer shades, his artfully designer-crumpled shirt, and his lack of interest in messing either of them up by checking through the chaos in the back of the car - and we remembered: at last we'd got to Italy.

We'd been looking forward to this from a culinary perspective - who doesn't like Italian food? - but pretty soon came to realise that our broad concepts of what Italian food really consists of were at best simplistic, and more often than not, just wrong.  Our first meal brought this home to us, as we discovered the Puglian cucina povera classic ciceri e tria in Lecce.  It's pasta, but not as you know it: with chickpeas adding an Arabic touch, and fried pasta strips seeming almost Chinese.  A good start ...

Jun 21, 2008 status: Learning to tell carnaroli from vialone nano

Jun 20, 2008 status: Bologna looks weirdly like Kraków and Tarnów

Dinner with the cinta senese

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Smcintasenese0001.jpgThere's a lot of interesting things about staying at Spannocchia, but one of the most interesting (for us, at least) was meeting the pigs.  They have a herd of rare breed Cinta Senese pigs, which they use to make their extremely tasty cured sausages and meats.  The pigs themselves have a happy life, rooting around in the woods and fields, and eating pretty much whatever they can find with great gusto.

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Jun 17, 2008 status: In Montalcino drinking Brunello in the rain

Having an offal day

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Smbarnabysandwich0001.JPGToday Barnaby went for lunch at the Nerbone food stand in the covered market in Florence.  He thought he should order something typically Florentine, so he ordered what he saw lots of the market traders were having - a lampredotto sandwich.

He wasn't actually sure what lampredotto was, but expected it would be something nice.  Sounds a bit like lamb, he thought.  He likes lamb.  Or maybe risotto.  He likes risotto too.

Smbarnabyhorror0001.JPGBut then he took a look inside ...

Jun 09, 2008 status: In Florence working in the kitchen at Zibibbo

Jun 04, 2008 status: In Rome trying to find somewhere to park a Land Rover


Culinary Anthropologist