Culinary Anthropologist

Archive

  1. Flavours of Fieldwork Secret Kitchen series

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    Flavours of Fieldwork
    in association with the SOAS Food Studies Centre

    Anna is hosting a series of dinners based on anthropology PhD students’ research in Morocco, Japan, China and Greece. Each dinner will bring to life recipes and stories from fieldwork in home kitchens, restaurants, shops and archives, reveal some surprising insights into cuisines you thought you knew, and demonstrate ways in which research into food contributes so much to anthropology today. Expect welcome drinks, feasting at communal tables and a delicious night out!

     

    K Graf pic Street marketA Moroccan Feast
    Fri 21st & Sat 22nd October 2016,
    with Katharina Graf

    Katharina spent months mastering the crafts of bread-making and couscous steaming, not to mention negotiating Marrakech’s street markets. She learnt to cook like the young Moroccan women around her – by sight, sound and touch – without a recipe book or set of scales in sight. Katharina’s research interests include the relationship between cooking and gender, the transmission of cooking knowledge across generations, and how home cooking reflects broader social changes in Morocco.

    Secret Kitchen oyakiRegional Japanese Cooking
    Fri 9th & Sat 10th December 2016
    with Celia Plender

    Regional food in Japan reveals a rich variety of cooking styles, tastes and ingredients. While some of these are seen as deeply embedded in the history and cultural practices of an area, others are identified as recently invented ‘traditions’. Both give insights into the social construction of local food and national cuisine. A decade ago Celia worked in a Tokyo restaurant and has since then regularly cooked and written about Japanese food. This dinner follows a recent trip to research regional Japanese cooking.

    Goanese balichao in a Macau wet market January 2016 copy tCantonese Masala
    Fri 17th & Sat 18th February 2017
    with Mukta Das

    Take a journey into the kitchens and cafes of 19th century Canton as we explore how experiments with spices have resulted in dishes that are now part of Macanese, Hong Kong or Cantonese culinary heritage. Mukta recently spent a year in Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou with professional chefs and home cooks, and in the archives, uncovering some of the ways the centuries old maritime spice trade carved deep and aromatic channels into the everyday cooking in these old cities.

    A Greek Moveable Feast
    Fri 17th & Sat 18th March 2017
    with Nafsika Papacharalampous

    Nafsika undertook fieldwork in the delis and restaurant kitchens of Athens, following the journey of Greek peasant foods of the past (such as trahanas or beef tongue) into the urban present. She is now writing up her PhD on Greek poverty and artisan foods and their relationship to national identity, tradition, heritage and memory. She is also an experienced professional cook, with a passion for old Greek cookery books.

     

    To book your place:
    All events start at 7.30pm and cost £45. To book your place email Anna by clicking the ‘book now’ button below with the following: which dinner(s) you would like to attend, the number of people in your group, whether you prefer the Friday or Saturday or could do either, and whether anyone in your group has any special dietary requirements.

    Event:Flavours of Fieldwork Secret Kitchen series
    Date(s):October 2016 to March 2017
    Time:7.30pm - 11pm
    Location:London N5 (Arsenal tube 2 mins walk)
    Price:£45
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.
  2. Secret Kitchen, Fri 17th & Sat 18th Feb 2017 – Cantonese masala

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    Da pai dong near Stanley Street Hong Kong May 2016 copy t

     

    Cantonese masala: the surprising stories of spicy food in China’s Pearl River Delta

    Take a journey into the kitchens and cafes of 19th century Canton as we explore how experiments with spices have resulted in dishes that are now part of Macanese, Hong Kong or Cantonese culinary heritage.

     

    Goanese balichao in a Macau wet market January 2016 copy t‘Star Ferry’ sours

    Vodka-based cocktails flavoured with fresh tamarind, lemongrass and cinnamon.

    Chicken chillicotes and vegetarian chamuças

    Dainty, spicy and crispy, and transcending time and borders, samosas, chillicotes and curry puffs are as much a part of Cantonese snacking as their cousins in India, parts of Africa and the Americas.

    Pork rib ‘tea’

    Thought to be a 19th century ‘prescription’ from the Chinese apothecary to keep dockers strong and warm, this Cantonese soup is a rich broth flavoured with spices and packed with meat, mushrooms and tofu.

    Macanese pork vinha d’alho with sticky rice and Chinese greens

    This dish is at the heart of the fusion that defines Macanese cooking. Flavoured with Chinese wine, turmeric, garlic and other aromatics, it challenges our views on its contemporary cousin, vindaloo.

    Steamed ginger milk pudding

    A classic Cantonese dessert combining south China’s buffalo herding and ginger growing traditions. Light ginger syrup, extracted fresh from the root, gently sets the frothy milk into sweet creamy pudding.

     

    Mukta Das Profile Cooking 2 tThis special Secret Kitchen is a collaboration with fellow anthropologist Mukta Das. Mukta is a social justice worker and researcher of food and immigration. As an anthropologist she recently spent a year in Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou with professional chefs and home cooks, and in the archives, uncovering some of the ways the centuries old maritime spice trade and the attendent travelling cooks carved deep and aromatic channels into the everyday cooking in these old cities.

    Mukta is also an exceptionally good cook. Book early to avoid disappointment!

    Please let us know about any dietary requirements when you make your booking. We can offer a vegetarian menu, but please be sure to check with us if you have other requirements.

    Event:Secret Kitchen
    Date(s):Friday 17th & Saturday 18th February 2017
    Time:7.30pm - 11pm
    Location:London N5 (Arsenal tube 2 mins walk)
    Price:£45
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.

     

  3. Secret Kitchen, Fri 17th & Sat 18th March 2017 – a Greek moveable feast

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    A Greek moveable feast in a secret kitchen

    This special Secret Kitchen is a collaboration with fellow anthropologist and chef Nafsika Papacharalampous. Nafsika undertook fieldwork in the delis and restaurant kitchens of Athens, following the journey of Greek peasant foods of the past (such as trahanas) into the urban present. She is now writing up her PhD on Greek poverty and artisan foods and their relationship to national identity, tradition, heritage and memory. She is also an experienced professional cook, with a passion for old Greek cookery books. Book early to avoid disappointment!

    Please let us know about any dietary requirements when you make your booking. We can offer a vegetarian menu, but please be sure to check with us if you have other requirements.

    Event:Secret Kitchen
    Date(s):Friday 17th & Saturday 18th March 2017
    Time:7.30pm - 11pm
    Location:London N5 (Arsenal tube 2 mins walk)
    Price:£45
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.
  4. Secret Kitchen, Fri 9th & Sat 10th Dec 2016 – regional Japanese cooking

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    A butcher's stall at Makishi Market Naha

    Regional food in Japan reveals a rich variety of cooking styles, tastes and ingredients. While some of these are seen as deeply embedded in the history and cultural practices of an area, others are identified as recently invented ‘traditions’. Both give insights into some of the social and political factors involved in the construction of local food and national cuisine.

    Celia Plender profile picThis special Secret Kitchen is a collaboration with fellow anthropologist, chef and food writer Celia Plender. A decade ago Celia worked in a Tokyo restaurant kitchen. Since then she has regularly cooked and written about Japanese food. In the spring of 2016 she returned to Japan to research regional Japanese food and cooking with a grant from the Yan-kit So Memorial Award For Food Writers on Asia. Celia will be presenting some of her recipes and findings from this recent research trip across Japan.

    The menu shows off some lesser known aspects of Japanese cuisine – culinary traditions both old and new from Okinawa, the cluster of sub-tropical islands in the far south of Japan.

    Taco rice – a fusion dish of sticky rice with Tex Mex-style beef taco toppings

    Jimami tofu – peanut milk tofu with a sweet-salty sauce, ginger and nori

    Goya champuru – stir-fried bitter melon with pork belly and egg

    Asajiru – sea lettuce soup

    Jushi – savoury rice with shiitake mushrooms, carrots and pork

    Sata andagi – Okinawan doughnuts, served with ice cream

    As an anthropologist Celia’s work focuses on food-based responses to social and economic change, consumption and co-operatives. But Japanese foodways will always be her passion.

    Please let us know about any dietary requirements when you make your booking. And do book early to avoid disappointment!

     

    Event:Secret Kitchen
    Date(s):Friday 9th & Saturday 10th December 2016
    Time:7.30pm - 11pm
    Location:London N5 (Arsenal tube 2 mins walk)
    Price:£45
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.

    hakodate

  5. Secret Kitchen, Fri 21st & Sat 22nd October 2016 – a Moroccan feast

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    K Graf pic Street market

    Katie GrafFellow anthropologist Katharina Graf is returning to Anna’s kitchen this October for another Moroccan feast. This time the menu will include:

    Harira al-hamra (hearty tomato soup full of fresh herbs, served for major religious holidays such as Ramadan)

    Bastila (decadent sweet-savoury dish of chicken or pigeon, lemony eggs, almonds, fine pastry and spices, prepared in the royal cities of Morocco)

    Seffa (rich, buttery couscous with cinnamon and raisins, traditionally served as dessert after bastila)

    As any traveller to Morocco knows, the best cooking is most often found in people’s homes. Katharina spent months mastering the crafts of bread-making and couscous steaming, not to mentioning negotiating Marrakech’s street markets. She learnt to cook like the young Moroccan women around her – by sight, sound and touch – without a recipe book or set of scales in sight.

    IMG_4527tKatharina’s research interests include the relationship between cooking and gender, the transmission of cooking knowledge across generations, and how home cooking reflects broader social changes in Morocco.

    Katharina’s last dinners with Anna sold out fast and were a huge success, so book early to avoid disappointment!

    Please let us know about any dietary requirements when you make your booking.

    Event:Secret Kitchen
    Date(s):Friday 21st & Saturday 22nd October 2016
    Time:7.30pm - 11pm
    Location:London N5 (Arsenal tube 2 mins walk)
    Price:£45
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.

     

  6. Special Persian Secret Kitchen, Fri 12th & Sat 13th Dec 2014

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     fesenjoon0001

    Saffron Nights: Tales from the Persian kitchen

    Prosecco with rose syrup and pomegranate

    Zaytoun parvardeh (olives marinated with pomegranates, walnuts and golpar)

    Borani laboo (beetroot and yoghurt dip with mint and Feta)

    Persian flatbread

    ***** 

    Ash-e-reshte (herb, legume and noodle soup)

    *****

    Fesenjoon (chicken with walnuts and pomegranate molasses)

    Saffron & barberry rice

    Salad shirazi (tomato, cucumber, radish and mint)

    ***** 

    Saffron, rosewater and pistachio ice cream

    Sohan (saffron toffee brittle)

    Orange blossom tea

    Saffron Nights: Tales from the Persian kitchen

    Join us for a mid-winter feast celebrating Iran, her food and her people. Writer and cook Yasmin Khan will bring a taste of Persia to the Secret Kitchen this December with a night of delicious food and magical stories from ancient Iran.

    Weaving tales of saffron and spices, with stories from Persian mythology and classic Sufi folklore, Saffron Nights will take you to the heart of the Old Silk Road to experience one of the hidden treasures of Middle Eastern cuisine.

    Yasmin Khan

    Yasmin Khan is a writer, campaigner and cook with a passion for sharing Iranian culture and cuisine. Last year, Yasmin ran a Kickstarter campaign to launch Saffron: Tales from the Persian kitchen, a project which led her to travel to Iran, armed with just a notepad and a bottle of pomegranate molasses, to collect recipes, stories and portraits from the people she met along the way.  The project is currently being developed for TV and a book.

    When not in the Persian kitchen, Yasmin manages Made in Hackney, a charity and social enterprise teaching vital food growing and cooking skills to vulnerable and low income groups in Hackney, London.

    Event:Special Persian Secret Kitchens
    Date(s):Friday 12th December & Saturday 13th December 2014
    Time:7.30pm-11pm
    Location:London N5
    Price:£40
    Book now
    flagPlease read the booking terms & conditions before booking your place. Thank you.
  7. Wild garlic pesto

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    Delicious mixed with pasta, stirred into a plain risotto at the end of cooking, topping a bowl of summer minestrone soup, or layered inside a lasagne with ricotta.  It keeps for a week in the fridge in a jar covered with a layer of olive oil.  Or freeze it in little plastic tubs.  I always have some ready to defrost quickly for an easy pasta ‘n’ pesto dinner – so much nicer than the pasteurised shop-bought jars.

    smpicsforpete0048

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  8. The milk of human kindness

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    We are in the Rodopi Mountains in southern Bulgaria, pondering why it is people here are said to live longer than anywhere else.  The fresh air and clean spring water?  The famous yoghurt (or “sour milk”, as it is classified here)?  Or perhaps what must be Bulgaria’s national dish – fresh salad piled high with excellent tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers – consumed in vast quantities.

    herding.JPG
    Having driven to Sofia for Matt to attend a conference, we decided to hang around afterwards to explore the mountains south and east of the capital.  Our previous experience of this country was limited, to say the least, and this needed rectifying.  Surely not everyone subsisted on green salad, rakia and cigarettes?

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  9. Rhubarb gimlet

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    This cocktail recipe was inspired by the one they serve at 69 Colebrook Row, a superb little cocktail bar in London.

    Rhubarb gimlet 1.JPGThe trick is to get a good balance of flavours.  It should taste distinctly rhubarby, with a good grown-up gin kick, and just a hint of lime.

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  10. Sephardi orange & almond cake

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    This recipe is adapted from Claudia Roden.  This cake has north African and Spanish roots.  According to Claudia, citrus cultivation and trade was particularly associated with Sephardi Jews around the Mediterranean, and there are any number of orange cake recipes in Sephardi culture.

    smbloodorange0001.jpgThis cake is remarkable for its total lack of both butter and flour.  You could use five or so clementines or tangerines instead of the oranges.

    Don’t worry if the cake sinks as it cools, or in fact turns out looking rather boring.  Trust me it is delicious, especially if served as a pudding with freshly sliced blood oranges and whipped cream.

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